Sapporo Ramen Alley, Hokkaido king crab and Kinotoya Bake cheese tarts

Fat sweet scallops. Giant king crabs. Buttery sea urchin. If these words commanded your attention, you need to make your way to Hokkaido as soon as you can. This island oasis of crisp clean air and spectacular scenery is what I like to call the Tasmania of Japan, a haven for lovers of nature and good food.

My first trip to Hokkaido was five years ago for the Sapporo Snow Festival, a