Hiroshima okonomiyaki and hungry deer, conger eel and grape soft serves on Miyajima Island

"He's eating my itinerary!" There was a wild and shrieking panic as we ran after the deer, already swallowing the first sheet of racy_staci's bundled papers. We'd laughed at everyone else's stories of Miyajima deer eating maps out of people's hands - oh those silly people - but that didn't lessen the shock when it happened to us, the deer sneaking up behind our backs and then quietly and